R-Rated Performance again hits the market with a first for the Ultra 250X and LX. $289.00

This product is an old favorite with the racing community. The idea can be traced back to Scat-Trak when they started giving the general public the secrets that factory teams had been using. The simple idea of opening or closing the exit nozzle will change RPM’s and pump pressure. As Scat-Trak says “With just a twist of a few screws, you can change the exit diameter of the Venturi nozzle in a snap. Looking for more RPM or acceleration power? Slide in a larger size ring. Want more top-end speed or lower RPM? Put in a smaller one. Either way, the aluminum Skat-Trak Adjusta-Nozzle for your O.E.M. pump or Magnum Pump will give you the option to customize the thrust to your riding needs.” Such a favorite to racer because it allowed for quick changes to customize the boat for the race conditions. With a switch of a ring you could set a boat to perform well in short tight courses or long open courses with out pulling a pump and doing prop changes.

So what can this do for the 250X. Well for the stock boats its can do little but has a hidden value. Kawasaki did a great job of building a pump that fits the horse power of the boat. They developed a pump that holds the power of the 250X through the entire power band. The exit diameter is set at around 82.5 mm with some slight variations.

The hidden Value? Ah that would be in the exit angle. Before the stock angle was pitched down just a hair to aid in wetting the hull for optimal handling. With the modified exit nozzle that angle is set to 0-deg. <see pic below> With the new exit nozzle and the 83mm ring I found just a bit more top end and better hole shot, mostly to the boat planning a bit quicker. Now when I say a bit more top speed I’m talking .4 mph at best.

Now hold on before you pass this one up thinking its only for the racers.

It could be of help to fine tune your boat for more top end once the mods are available that offer more HP. Once props and Hp come into play is when the exit nozzle will really shine.

Ill keep this one updated as I try more combination and see favorable results but as of now the 83mm is range to be in.

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This information and text are straight out of the K-Tech News.

K-Tech is the internal information news letter for Kawi Dealers and Technicians. Published by the KAWASAKI Tech Services division. Its purpose to get news out quickly and accurately. Often no recall or memo is sent but will be featured in the K-Tech News letters.  Any Kawasaki Dealer has access to this informational newsletter to get the latest updates about most Kawi Products.

Copy from K-Tech Volume 20 Issue 1 Page 2

The Ultra and LX watercraft are equipped with an ignition Immobilizer system to help prevent theft and unauthorized use. A transponder within the key communicates with the ECU- if the key’s transponder signal is not recognized by the ECU, the ignition system, injectors and fuel pump will not start.

Each boat is delivered with two keys; one Full Power Operation (FPO)  and a Smart Learning Operation (SLO) key that limits top speed. Many customers are likely to request spare keys at the time of purchase, and the system allows up to six keys to be registered with the ECU. However, the initial version of the parts catalogs for these models do not show the keys individually. The keys are only shown as part of the ECU assembly.

Individual keys are available and shown in updated parts catalog that will be released as soon as April. The individual key part numbers are: FPO Key (Orange) 27008-3767 and the SLO Key (Yellow) 27008-3768.

The service manual for these models provide great detail on the immobilizer system and key programming. However, following the detailed programming instructions can be difficult and confusing. Our Technical Trainers have simplified those instructions.

You must program all keys at one time.Once the Key registration has been initiated, all other registered keys will be erased from the ECU, except the key used to turn on the boat to start the programming process.

#1 To access the battery in the front storage compartment, remove the cap on the diagnostic receptacle and connect the Key Registration special tool. (P/N 57001-1582)

#2 Insert any Key that is currently registered to the PWC (either FPO or SLO key). From the key’s detent position, push it in for approximately one second then release. The buzzer will produce two short beeps, followed by a slightly longer beep, signaling that the key is recognized and the system’s key registration program is on.

#3 Remove the key, insert the second key to be programmed and press it in for approximately one second then release to start the key registration process for the Key number two. Two short beeps will be heard indicating that the key has been successfully programmed. If additional keys will be programmed at this time, repeat this step. After each key is registered, a corresponding number of beeps will be heard (three beeps after the third key, four beeps after the fourth, up to the six-key maximum).

#4 When you have programmed the final key, do not remove it. Press the key in a second time and hold it in until a long beep (at least three seconds) is heard and then stops, then release the key. This ends the registration process for all keys that have been inserted. You must not remove the key until after the long beep is emitted. If the last key is removed before the long beep, all previous keys will not be programmed (the initial key is not affected.).

#5 Remove the Key Registration special tool, replace the diagnostic receptacle cap and battery cover, and install the storage bucket.

NOTE: This key registration procedure is only valid with a key that has been  previously programmed to the corresponding ECU. This can be the original key that comes with the boat or any duplicated key. If all keys are lost or faulty due to damage, the ECU must be replaced since the registration mode cannot start with an unrecognized key.

The above entry was from Kawasaki Corp.

K-Tech 20-1 can be found in the Ultra Tech Library

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Please read the links as they are crucial in completely understanding this junctions point of information.

Well lets start with the purpose of this intercooler.

The intercooler is basically a radiator turned inside out. It purpose is to cool air as it passes over fins. In watercraft, these fins are cooled by water passing through tubes they are attached to. Read this explanation and then come back.

So Ive explained what it does and you should now have a fair understanding of how it plays in the performance. So lets get into when and why we should clean it.

First if you have had the oil issue come up then you will need to clean the intercooler.

Second if you have ingested water then you will need to clean the intercooler.

Third and worst one, if you have had the oil problem then ingested water then you will have to clean the intercooler.

So why clean the oil out. Some say the oil will blow out or help in preventing corrosion. Well thats not all true and worse it will cause the intercooler to operate below standard. This low efficiency will raise engine operating temperatures which takes away performance and can cause engine damage. The oil may also dry up leaving a residue on the fins which act as a thin thermal barrier. In cars it has been tested that residue lined and dirty intercoolers can have a 20 to 35 % drop in efficiency. Most who understand the purpose of emission routed crank pressure will remove it from the air intake track as to avoid residue build up in the intercooler.

Next is water in the intercooler. Its important to rid the intercooler of this as it may be salt water or high in minerals or acids. Allowing water to dry up is never recommended in these intercoolers. Cleaning them is crucial as soon as possible after water ingestion. Mineral deposits or salt built up is ruff to remove from the internal fins.

So I shared the theory of the clean intercooler makes more HP.

Lets get into removing and cleaning the intercooler.

Ive done this two different ways. The first was cleaning heavy amount of oil from the intercooler. I choose to remove it after finding that oil was effecting my BOV and was also exiting from my heat extractors.

First in both methods is to remove the intercooler. I followed the RIVA instruction from the Exhaust Mod.

So I choose to open the sides of my intercooler to get a good look. Once I had the ends off, I realized that the rubber O ring had become oil soaked and was allowing oil to pass through it. That meant I was loosing boost out my intercooler seals. Damn oil get everything a mess.

I chose to use a big cat pan to catch the gasoline that I used to poor though the fins to clean them. Some might want to use other stuff to do the cleaning but remember there is silicone sealant inside this unit so use something safe. With what ever you use just be careful. Ideally you want to be in a well ventilated area and refrain from smoking.

Notice I did not attempt to remove the bottom of the intercooler. Don’t, this is where the water flows through the intercooler and is sealed tight and you should not attempt to remove it.

So this is the simple part, now lets put it back together…..lol

Let me show you a truly strange issue.

That correct. WTF is up with that. It came out just fine but when I went to put it together I got this issue in my face. The rubber gasket no longer fits in the gasket groove. To boot its a Wednesday and I have a race on Saturday. Called the dealer for a new one and they said they had to order it. Go figure, they have over 500K dolls in parts in stock and non of these 20 dollar O rings.

So I had to figure something out.

The old O ring. snipped.

Vary carefully and closely snipped the o ring on both sides to fit snug but easily into the O-ring groove

I then added a bead of Right-Stuff around the edge between the o ring and the screw holes. Then reinstalling the end caps and tightening them down. You should see a small amount squeeze out the sides. I just cleaned it up using a paper towel.

So thats the long way.

The short way is to not remove the ends of the intercooler but to tape up one end of the intercooler and put in one half gallon of gas and slosh it around. Do this several times dumping out the old gas into container.

Be sure to allow the intercooler to dry completely before installing it back into the ski.

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THIS MOD CAN AND MOST LIKELY WILL VOID YOUR FACTORY WARRANTY

This stems from way back as we started to dabble with the BOV. As shown in this entry of OEM BOV Mod.

Several opted to mod the valve and others ventured into completely blocking it off. These different aspects and approaches were heavily debated in the forums. Several long and informative discussions rooted from this one aspect of the Ultra 250. It was one of the best thought out and learning discussions I have experienced. So well that now we have a product that focuses on just that one simple idea. Block it off and forget about it.

Still is it something we can forget about? Is it something that could fester future issues? I don’t know.

It will be interesting in the near future as to how this simple piece will play into pulley mods. Will it be cast aside or a most have??????

Regardless, as of now I have been running it and finding consistent boost numbers. No more fluctuation in my readings.

Ok now for the item and its install.

Here are your choices.

R-Rated Performance at $12 and the $5 optional gasket. Trust me and get the gasket with the part. Oh and it even comes with a rubber cap to block off the vent hose on the air box.

R&D Unit with no price listed or option to get the gasket. I “assume” you will need to order it from the dealer as they don’t show it with a gasket. I also didnt see if they offer the vent hose cap off for the air box but I “assume” it does not.

I chose the R-Rated unit because they had them ready to ship when R&D did not. R-Rated also offered the stock gasket replacement. That to me made it simple to order. Still just a personal chioce.

Regardless which one you choose they will both do the same thing.

So its simple. My inter cooler was out and easy to show the part once installed.

Some shots of the install. Simple to do and please spend the silly $5 and get a new gasket to do this install.

Just remember that modifications like this are not recommended by the manufacture and you need to be prepared for the out come or at last be prepared to put it back to stock before going to any dealer for warranty work.

More test results as I have time to play with this one more. As of now all is fine. Has not effected AFR or EGT.

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$235. 00

This Modification could void your manufacture warranty.

This mod is considered stock legal in both the IJSBA and APBA racing rules.

This is one of R-Rated’s newer mods available. It was designed with other performance mods in mind.

As it is the stock air box is hollow and has a great flow rate with inlets for all stock items such as catch can vent, exhaust ventilators and BOV’s.

This unit from R-Rated will require for some additional work that is not directly related to the intake system. What I’m saying is that the R-Rated Air Intake kit does not have any fittings for additional items to vent into the intake system. If you are going to vent your oil catch can into the air intake system, then you will have to request the “catch can fitting” option when ordering this unit. You will also need to cap off or filter off the air suction ventilators. The BOV and Relief Valve will also be something that you will need to address. I chose to cap of my BOV with the Blow off Cap from R-Rated. My relief valve is vented out the rear of the boat with the Heat Extractor.

So as you can see this mod is more of a advanced racing application and will require addition work to be completed to make this mod a beneficial option. I personal find it a huge benefit to eliminate the potential problems these extra items into the air intake can cause.

Lets get to the installation of this thing. If you have stock steering then simply tilt your steering all the way up. You will see two bolts that support you stock air box. Those need to come out.

Well forgive me for doing this but Riva shows it so well. So here it is. Instructions.

You can stop at the air box removed. You will need to keep the stock air box bracket and attach as shown below. At this time you can also assemble the air intake a shown below.

Slide the horn onto shorter end of pipe and the 4″ flex hose onto the loner end. Tighten it all snug a this point. “Do” attach the blue coupler also. On this application it makes it easy to slip it onto the S/C.

I snaked my filter assembly through the ECU where the stock air box cam out. Route you 4′ hose down to the supercharger but do not attach it yet. First attach the stock bracket in place and tighten screws using blue Loc-Tite. Once thats complete it is now possible to attach the blue coupler to the S/C. I used Windex in aiding during this part.

4″ Flex tube should rest on the gas tank as such.

Front of kit showing before closing it back up.

It took me roughly 1 hr to complete this install. It goes in clean and easy.  Lake testing is do to be completed soon.

Update on Testing. BEST INTAKE TO DATE FOR RELIABLE PERFORMANCE. Do yourself a favor and check the FlowRight material often as it gets clogged easily and super restrictive. Use warm soapy water to clean the cover especially when riding in salt water. The cover gets a white chalky build up to it.

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Some will never have this issue, some will have it multiple times. Regardless it happened to me and I want to share what I have done to get back into the race. DO NOT WAIT, RUST IS STARTING THE MOMENT IT TOOK ON WATER.

First what happens during water ingestions.

More then likely water will get into your engine when flipping the craft. Hard to flip this monster but it can happen. The DUMB way of ingesting water is leaving your drain plugs open and sinking your boat while its in idle. My water ingestion came from a performance modification that was not properly protected from outside elements. I continued to run my ski until it died dead.

So what happens. The water will follow the air intake tube into the charger, then into the intercooler. Its in the intercooler that a good amount of water can collect and save the motor from ingestion. What you feel is loss in power and occasional bobbling. Its best if you shut it down then. If you must get yourself to a destination to avoid being stranded then  idle to your destination.

If you ingest so much water that the engine will not start then do not try anymore. Water has more then likely made its way into the cylinder and has wet the spark plug and making it useless.

So you for sure ingested water?

Pack it up and head home. Do not attempt lake side repairs. If you have been running you ski for some time then do not attempt to remove the plugs until the engine has cooled. Don’t listen to anyone that says you need to pull the plug to get the water out. If you do attempt to pull the plugs while the engine is still warm then you will run a huge risk of this photo.

What this photo shows is the thread that had snapped off the plug during removal from a hot 250 motor. This head on the 250 is aluminum and expands during hot running and locking in the plugs. You must wait till the head has cooled before it will release the plug. Trust me its a huge pain getting the threads out of the head…. Removing the plugs comes later.

As soon as you can, you need to pull out the intercooler from your ski. If you have never done this then follow the section on Intercooler removal here. Only get the info you need to remove the intercooler.

Once you have that out then drain it. Simply tilt it vent side down. Pick a side with a hole and poor it out till empty. Mine dumped about a gallon of water out. Leave it on end until empty. {If you did the ingestion in salt water then you will need to flush it out with fresh water as to avoid corrosion.} Once it no longer drains then set it on a table and use a blow dryer to dry it out. I stole my ladies hair dryer that can blow air with out heat. I stuck it in the intake hole and taped it in place. This allowed for air to flow throw the intercooler and dry it out. After a few hours I reversed the directs of air flow to get the other side. I left mine go all day.

Now for the air intake. Vary little will settle but some will as this photo shows from oil puddling.

This can dry out on its own but will take some time. If you need to then remove the air intake hose and dry this portion of the Super Charger out. Leave this open till the last as you will want to fog the SC with fogging oil to protect the SC from corrosion.

Your air box has a pink nipple for draining. Remove that and allow the water to drain from the air box it self. Aftermarket intake systems do not have this pink drain plug.

Now for the throttle body and intake manifold. I took a zip tie and zip tied the throttle open at the finger throttle. This allows the trigger to stay pulled open and allow the throttle plate to stay open. If your ski is on a trailer its now that you want to tilt it up as much as possible for the water to run out of the throttle body. Be sure you put a towel under the open throttle plate so water is soaked up instead of draining all over you hull. You will also want to remove the drain plug to the intake manifold. This is located in the front of the intake manifold just above the oil filter and next to the manifold temp sensor.

Not all the water will come out. You will need to gentle push a dish towel into the throttle body in hopes to soak up the remaining water that has puddled in the throttle body. Once you feel its dry then you can move onto the engine itself.

First remove the plug wires and drape them over the side of the engine compartment and “gentle” remove the spark plugs.

Ok so ensure all is clear. You might want to put a towel over item’s you don’t want wet and messy. Better yet pull your ski outside to attempt the next step. You will need to run the motor on the starter. The plugs being out and the plug wires away from the engine you will want to run the start button for about 10 seconds at a time. This forces out water and air from the plug holes. Careful though because what will be coming out is a high volume mixture of water gas and air. So don’t be looking into a plug hole when attempting the BLOW OUT.

You will notice no more water coming out after about 3 attempts. Be sure to dry off the head after each attempt. Once your sure that the motor has turned out all the water then clean it up and install a NEW set of plugs. NGK Laser Platnium PMR9B. Get them from your Kawi Dealer. Don’t be fooled or tricked into a different plug. There is no better or cheaper plug that can be safely used. If you cant find a new set, then clean the old ones using a good amount of WD40 then allow them to dry some. They will look wet but as long as its wet with WD40 and not water you should be fine.

Once your components are clean and dry you can put them back into your boat. Reinstall all but the catch can. Check it for oil foam. See photo below, this is my catch can with a large amount of foam from the oil and water mixture.

Clean this in a part washer. Do not use water or soap. Use nothing other the heat or a parts washer. You don’t want to contaminated you oil with residue. Once clean reinstall it.

No for the messy part.

Check the dip stick. If the motor oil is clear or a dark shinny black then you dodged this bullet. If it looks like coffee with a creamer in it then your in for some good old dirty oil changes.

Just a quick look inside of my motor before the oil changes. See how the pooling oil is effected by the water.

You will need to do a minimum of 3 oil changes. Run your motor on the hose flush kit for about 5 to 10 minutes varying the idle. Never hit the rev limiter or high RPM’s as pump damage can happen from doing this. This is also a good time to fog the SC with a engine fogging oil as the motor is running and will draw in the fog and lubricate along with protect the SC, IC, Throttle body and valves from corosion.

On your third oil change you will need to change the oil filter. Kawasaki Part Number 16097-0003. Again there is no replacement or better filter out for this motor. Oil pressure demands this filter and any other will either slow your oil flow causing damage or the pressure will ensure the filter seal to fail.

Once you have completed this major task then take it back to the lake and do a simple lake testing. Be easy on it as some water may blow through as left over from some missed. Run it as if you are doing a break in.

Once completed then do a post work inspection. Insure all bolts are tight and all clamps are snug.

Check you oil and expect to do an oil change at 5 hrs and again at 15 hours after your ingestion.

This whole project is determined to be valued at or around $1000.00. So if you have the cash and don’t want to bother with the mess then take it to the dealer but be warned that future issues can be blamed on the ingestion as the dealer will have record of it.

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Here is what your engine does when left with water in it. TRUST ME! GET THE WATER OUT AS SOON AS YOU CAN. This engine was thought to be OK and was sitting at the dealer for a couple of weeks waiting on them to get around to it. Dont let this happen to you. Rust made the exhuast valves stick open, rings corrosion and connecting rod damage. TOTAL ENGINE OVERHAUL.

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