Well I don’t need to tell ya how to install this easy one so lets get into the whole idea of this mod.

This is one of those modifications that does nothing more then deliver what the consumer wanted. You get what you ask for. Neat looking filters that go onto your BOV and Relief valve. Performance gain is minimal if that. So lets take Riva description and clarify it.

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION:
Easy to install Bypass Upgrade Kit contains all parts necessary to redirect hot air from the engine’s bypass valves and crankcase vent; eliminating power-robbing engine emissions from entering your air intake system. Kit includes fitted K&N filters for bypass & blow-off valves and crankcase vent. Designed to work with both RIVA Pro-Series & Performance Power Filter Kits for Ultra 250X.

Lets start with Crank Case Vent. It’s referring to the top hose coming off the oil catch can. The oil catch can is used to retain oil when ventilating the crank case. The motor vents from case to valve cover then out into the catch can.

This filter add on looks cool when seat is off but ugly if you ever overfill your oil. I chose to vent my crank case vent into my Riva Pro Intake, that way if oil every does over flow the catch, it will be routed into my engine intake and hopefully burned off. To much oil could pool in the inter-cooler so oil level is crucial. The “engine emissions” is referring to the oil vapor from the catch can. If your maintaining optimal oil levels then the level of oil vapor is so minimal that little to no performance loss is evident.

Not sure as to why they are saying that the air from the BOV and Relief Valve is HOT. This over sized inter-cooler does a great job of reducing the hot air from the supercharger down to ambient temps. Since the inter-cooler uses water from the pump, I have often seen cooler temps from the water being colder then air temps.

Some have claimed that not redirecting the air back into the intake will cause lag due to the escaping of stacked air. This is completely wrong in this application. First let me say that the air is only compressed down with 11lbs of force. As soon as it is released it is instantly uncompressed. So returning it to the air box in hopes that the supercharger will labor less because the redirected blow off is already compressed is completely wrong.
Another theory about this system is that the air is measured using a Mass Air Sensor and redirecting it will again cause engine lag from mapped air escaping causing the ECU to run the engine rich. Its not at all. Cars use this to measure the amount of air entering the intake manifold so that ECU can control the amount of fuel to help maintain an optimal AFR.

So redirecting the air that escapes the inter-cooler through the BOV or Relief Valve has no true disadvantage or gain. What it does do is give a really cool sound that warns off those grudge seekers. It also looks pretty sweet and chicks dig it.

I will say that redirecting mine has done nothing for RPM gains or performance as of now. The choice is yours. This upgrade is defiantly an eye catcher but if your expecting noticeable performance gains then I’m afraid you will be disappointed.

Personally, I bought it because it looks and sounds killer.

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Don’t fear doing this mod. Its reversible for a cost of $25. Kawasaki Part # 14307-3711. This information was founded from the efforts of R-Rated Performance during their testing of a air intake system.

So lets get into the under liner. “pink” on diagram. It is baffled and ducked in a manner that allows air to pass but routes water down and off to the sides of it.

The photo below shows the under liner and the water catch.

This photo is the back side of the under liner cover.

Notice on this photo how I opened the scoop section to allow larger amounts of air flow volume.

Here is where I place the two 2.5 inch holes just offset from the air intake hoses under the gages display.

Another photo of placement.

I also am using the Flow-Rites from R-Rated. at 18.95 each they are a great added protection item to the ram air mod.

This modification has no performance gain if you are running the Riva Pro Air Intake Kit. It will only aids in adding cool air into the hull.

If your running the stock air box or another under hull air intake system then this mod if a huge benefit. Testing has been done and has shown better acceleration and .5 mph gains on top end. Mostly due to forced are into the hood allowing air intake tubes to provide fresh cool outside air into the area where the stock intake draws from.

AS far as water ingestion into the hull. Well the photo below is of a race during the weekend. Several times I found myself closely behind other performance skis and having huge amounts of spray off the other boat. The scoop for sure was intaking huge amount of water but never did the towel I had in the hull button become wet during each race event.

There are times when attempting to pass in closed coarse racing that you see nothing. Your only hope is to throttle down and find a clear view. Not a good feeling at all but a great way to test if the water would be ingested into the hull area. This next photo was actually snapped second before the photo above. Shows just how much spay I was pushing through.

So I can say with confidence the ram air mod does not ingest water into your hull area.

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Riva Pro Air Intake. $399.95

“”"Caution, if you plan on running the UMI Steering set up then you will have to be extremely careful to avoid water ingestion into the air intake. Using the UMI set up removes the protective steering skirt and allows water to flood the Riva Pro Air Intake if the nose digs in on a turn or crashing through waves. This has happened to me twice at this point and I am now waiting to see if a protective cover is coming out to avoid massive flooding of the steering area.”"”"”

This Modification is ”NOT” Stock Legal in the IJSBA or APBA. It is clasified under Open Class Rules.  If your looking to stay Stock or Limited legal then you will need to look into the Riva Performance Intake instead.

This kit is the first cool air intake system available that uses air from outside of the hull. No hot air from inside the hull is used with this kit. It completely replaces the stock intake system. Only noticeable  visual change is the glove box is transformed into an ash tray. Weight difference is about 2lbs. lighter then stock intake. Sound this things puts out is on the loud side. So if you plan on only rec riding then you may want to consider the Performance Intake Kit. Though this kit does offer the ability to turn it into a Performance Air Intake system. All you will need to purchase a small bracket and cut the pipe down to under the hull.

The kit was complete and the instruction were easy but I will say that to save some hassle Ive changed the instructions some.

In the instructions from Riva it says to install the Blue Coupler onto the charger first and then install the plastic snorkel. It also says to install the catch can vent into the snorkel later on in the install. Well I tried it that way and it took forever to get in th coupler. The plastic pipe does not have a perfectly round surface. So I installed the couple first along with the vent hose. Went on alot easier but still a huge hassle.

Complete install took me about 5 hrs. mostly because I’m not a mechanic and things took me longer to insure I had done it correct. Riva says to remove the ECU but I simply tucked it down into an open space in front of the gas tank. I also chose to remove my fuel pick up as it was getting in the way.

Once putting the system together I noticed the Air intake tube pushing hard against my fuel pickup unit.

Trying to readjust the snorkel did not help but loosening and rotating the pick-up to the right just a small amount relieved the pressure on the unit and all seems fine to tighten down.

Some shots of the installed air intake.

So ya might be wondering how it worked out for me. Well testing was going good. Boat seemed to pull harder and the top end was climbing during my runs.

I was extremely pleased with the performance but testing was cut short this day. I went into the shore line to pull the seat and make sure everything was was still tight. I opted to remove my R&D Fuel Controller to see the performance without it. I was on the last plug when the next thing I knew I was looking up at my brother beating on my chest. I was out of the water and flat on my back with several friends yelling and screaming. Took me about to get breathing again and even longer to get to my feet.

After getting moving again I was told I got hit by lighting. WHAT!!. They had to tell me again that the tree by the water had been struck by lighting and since I was the only one in the water that I was the one who got it. My hotty “Danielle” who was close to the tree was thrown to the ground.

She took some shots after the paramedics had left.

Brief story from Local 6.

A man standing in a lake at the Osceola-Orange County line Sunday was knocked unconscious when a bolt of lighting hit near the shore line, according to officials.

Witnesses said Skip Holmes was riding a watercraft at Moss Park along Lake Mary Jane Sunday when he was hit during severe weather in region. “My brother fell over in the water and couldn’t move,” Phillip Holmes said. “All of the muscles flared up in his body and he couldn’t move. He was out. He was unconscious.” It is believed the lighting bolt hit a nearby tree and traveled from the ground to the lake. “My hair started tingling and the ground shook,” Holmes said. “And when I looked over there I saw stuff falling from the tree.” “I kind of tasted the electrical charge through my fillings,” swimmer Kenney Patterson said. The Holmes brothers are members of the TeamMoto watercraft racers and were practicing for an upcoming competition, the report said. “We knew coming out here what the weather was going to be like and we chanced it,” Holmes said. “Well, in the future, we won’t do that again.” Holmes was expected to recover from his injuries. There were no other reports of injuries.

Watch Local 6 News for more on this story.

Man this was a bad day. Oh and the Fuel Controller I was holding is dead. It no longer works at all.

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Adjustable BOV’s to get from the stock boost level of about 10 psi to 11.3/11.4 range that Kawi advertised are now available. Price: $0.

The only catch? A bit of work is required.

First remove the plastic BOV (the one on the I/C). NOTE: Use a heat gun on the ribbed black outlet hose and it will practically fall off by itself. The alternate way is to pull very hard on it until it breaks as several other people have done – then you get to buy a new one.

Now the secret: the BOV looks like a single plastic piece but it is not. It is a 2-piece unit. Heat the round domed top with a heat gun until very hot. I then used a thin silicone kitchen hot pad to grip the top, rock it back and forth with some force and it slipped right off.

BEHOLD THE SIGHT OF A FULLY ADJUSTABLE BOV MECHANISM!

To adjust: while holding the 10mm bolt head on the seat end of the valve, remove the 10 mm nylock that was under the cap you removed. Remove the bolt and slide out the brass tube the bolt went through. Then remove the 21mm nut. The hollow shaft the 21mm nut was on is slotted. Turning the shaft clockwise increases the spring pre-load and thus the blow off pressure and vice versa.

The result should be virtually undetectable unless Kawi admits they never sold a ski that hits the advertised boost level. If someone familiar with Kawi sealers can ID the sealer used on the BOV top, it will be undetectable. The sealer (black in color) is not silicone and appeared to me to run out of the joint under high heat.

Enjoy!

Dave

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The above info was provided by Dave from Texas. Why is this modification so inportantant? Well it seems as though several have tested boost level to find anything from 10 psi to as high as 12 psi max. This BOV is the unit that is responsible for regulating max boost levels. Doing this modification ensures that you are getting the full capabIe boost level out of the Supercharger. My boost level was showing a peak psi of 10.

At first we thought that the unit was put together using a glue that made it impossible to open the unit. Dave found out different. Once he showed us how, we started getting into it and found that it is indeed an adjustable style BOV.

Important part of this mod is using the heat gun to release the BOV cap. Carefull with the heat. You want it hot to the touch but not smoking.

Skip

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This one is going to be a bit long and will consist of several explanations of the oil and the PVC system. First part is the oil change. I did mine in a manner that several can debate as being insane but it has worked just fine.

I like to get my boats engine level. Best way to do this is use a torpedo level on the valve cover and adjusting the tongue height of the trailer until your torpedo shows level.

I left mine set over night in this manner. First thing in the morning I sucked out the drained oil with my Tempo Oil extractor. Be sure to record how much you have removed. Mine pulled out 4.2 qts.

Then I stuffed paper towels under the oil filter located on the right front side of motor just under the intake manifold. Remove the oil pressure switch just above the oil filter. Use a oil filter wrench to carefully remove the oil filter. Quickly reinstall new filter {P/No 16097-0003} be sure to oil the rubber O-ring and torch down to 13 ft-lb.

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Several oil choices are available but the choose is yours. Try to follow your owners manual for the operating temperatures in your area. I choose to go off the chart and use the AMS oil 0-30 just as MaccRacing has done with there race craft. Doing this will require more oil changes and constant checking of oil levels. In a race machine you will want to continually change and check oil. As far as aftermarket filters, well I have found non that offer better filter ability and still maintain the stock application for this boat. What that means is they may sell some that fit but none of them are made for the 250X. Since oil pressure can be high through the filter I opted to stay with the Kawi part and just change it more often.

Unscrew the fill cap and start with 3 quarts of oil. Start the engine for 1 minute at idle. Shut it off. Check level after 10 to 15 minutes as the oil will trickle down to the stick reservoir

Continue to slowly fill , start, let set and check until you get to “your” desired oil level . I like to only go to the Blue E when cold or the Red G when hot.

A= Full Cold

B= Low Cold

E Blue= Full to me when cold

D= Full Hot

E Red= Low Hot

G= Full to me when hot.

So why have I chosen to run my oil lower then recommendation?

Well lets start my theory with the explanation of the PVC system of the 250X. Below is a picture from the 250X service manual.

Picture makes it pretty simple to follow the vapor route. Blow-By from pistons makes for air in the crank case. It is this air that becomes oil vapor moving to the valve cover then over to the oil catch can. The Oil Catch can is the only way of ventilating the case pressure that forms. Its in this catch can that heavy residue should drain into the bottom of the engine block. The line coming from the top of the can is to draw gasses formed into the air intake system to be burned through the engine and out the exhaust. These gasses carry a oil residue and rumored to aid in corrosion control of the forced air system. In theory this is a a great system and works well. So why so low on my top offs.

Well this motor is forced induced. The case pressure formed in the engine block is forcing oil up and out that should have drained to the bottom of the catch can. I found that running full oil and full boost causes a massive amount of air to exit the valve cover bringing excessive amounts of oil with it. This oil is being pushed into the air intake system which can rest in the inter-cooler, supercharger or come out the relief valve to again be vented into the air intake system. Its this oil that has caused my BOV failures and loss of HP and even pooling of oil in the Inter-cooler and supercharger.

Picture from a 250X Inter-cooler and blower with excessive oil.

Looking at what others have done under supercharged motor, I have found that running mid level oil is still safe for the engine but greatly reduces the amount of sloshing of the oil.

I know someone is going to say something about positive and negative case pressures. Well lets put it this way. The tube going to the Air Box does have suction at full boost but it does not seem to contribute to the oil issue. I took my hose off  the oil catch can and popped on a KN style air breather. Still the oil blew out the breather filter and went everywhere inside my hull. This I would call a positive crank case pressure, relieving itself out the catch can unit.

Below is a catch can that has been cut open. Just a demo, it does not mean you need to cut open your catchcan.

More coming on why this is opened up and the modification coming to aid in slowing the amount of oil movement but not the air flow…………

Above is the new modified catch can that Rudy from R-Rated Performance sent me. He cut open a stock unit and installed a triple ported baffle to help in reducing the amount of oil gurgle from the case during maximum case pressures. The idea is to allow as much air flow as possible while reducing the oil from climbing to the top vent hose.

With the catch can installed and oil level adjusted I was able to test it. I waited until a race event weekend. Running the boat in 4 different moto’s. Pushing the performance load to it s max I found no effect of oil escaping from the catch can. Doing my post weekend inspection I did not find any oil in the inter cooler or supercharger. With the catch can mod and running lower oil levels I have completely eliminated my oil overflow issues.

For those who use this machine as recreational then it will be as simple as adjusting your oil level but for those running in competitions then the modified oil catch can will most defiantly benefit.

Oh wait just a minute it goes on, follow this link. http://www.teammotoracing.com/?cat=49

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R-Rated Fuel Controller.

R-Rated “finally” sent me a Fuel Controller.

It hooks in just like the other unit. Both units back to back are identical in performance. I saw no difference what so ever in either model, identical in every aspect. Even the wire colors are the same. I called Rudy to ask why. Simply put, same manufacture. The company making them are the only reliable ones out there. Comes from the manufacture with plugs and all. Only there dealers are allowed to reliable them and program them for resale.

Rudy also says that they have been using them for years on street bikes and other four stroke motors with fuel injection.

I will say that TeamMoto is a dealer for R-Rated Perf. and my price on the programmer was $359.00. Since I am a non-profit venture, I have arranged this same price for anyone wanting the R-Rated Fuel Controller. This arrangement has only been available to TeamMoto because I am a dealer of R-Rated as I am for Riva and Skiworx. So when calling in you must mention the discount through TeamMoto otherwise your going to pay full retail of $455.00. You will more then likely have a receipt showing TeamMoto Dealership Program. Orders under this discount are directly billed and shipped from them. This one is a hook up to everyone for helping Project 250X. Thank You guys for your help.

Update*******

After several runs with the programmer from R&D and R-Rated Ive found that the programming offered from them is simply the only setting worth using. Here in Florida at 100ft above sea level I see no gains in changing the settings. I tried all sorts of setting and the one that worked best is the stock setting. Unplugging the unit yielded higher speeds and plugs looked great. Talking with Rudy he said he has not been selling them to people due the price to gains ratio of this modification. I agreed with him. Unless more air is added then why would you need more fuel, personal question?. Seems the fuel mapping is pretty close to optimal in this boat as is. Adding the programmer to my modification list has not benefited me enough to explain 450 dollars. So personally I will set these two on the shelf until its needed with modification that are pushing the boat lean.

Talking with Riva they dont offer a programmer at this point because they have found no need for it.

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R-Rated Performance again comes out with a first to market modification for the 250X. $249.00

Comes preset to 12psi with an adapter plate, bolts and gasket. You need to also use the stock gasket from the BOV.

Kit comes with Blow Off Valve replacement preset to 12psi, adpter plate & bolts with gasket Just bolt it on and your set to go.

Lets get into some explanation about this part. First Ill start out with the birth of this idea. It started when Rudy first started testing a stock 250X. He noticed that his motor was not hitting the advertised 11.4 psi. Checking his Relief Valve he found that it was operating fine. Checking the BOV it seemed to be leaking at or around 5 psi and more as the pressure built.

Using an aftermarket BOV that allows for pressure adjustment, he found that setting the secondary to pop at 12psi, the 11.4 psi was again restored.

After installing my Innovative testing equipment I found that my peak boost was around 10 psi and AFR was hitting 10.5 to 11. Once installing the R-Rated kit, my boost jumped to 11.28 and the AFR went solid to 11.5 at peak RPM’s. I will say that I did not see much top end gain but have noticed a huge improvement in acceleration.

What caused the valve failure? I’m still not sure myself on this. I will say that the stock BOV was working fine on mine until about a hour of riding. It was then started to loose performance. I did notice that when mine did start leaking that it was covered in motor oil inside it. Checking deeper into this I found that the motor oil had been over filled from the dealer and that the oil was not allowing the BOV to seal properly. Too much oil in the motor will allow the oil catch can to vent overages into the intake air box. Minor amount will benefit the supercharger but is suppose stay minor and not in the amounts I was seeing. Improper oil levels will cause damage if it is to low and issues with oil contamination to BOV and inter-coolers if to high. Replacing the stock BOV with an adjustable BOV and doing an oil change made a huge difference. I’m now SAFELY running full boost and have the ability to remove and clean my Aftermarket BOV of any future oil contamination.

At this time some have chosen to use a block off plate on the BOV location. This I chose NOT to do because it puts the full responsibility of maintaining boost on the Relief Valve and charger with no BOV. I chose to keep the BOV safety option available as the manufacture has done. As I understand it from the owners maneul 9-13, the relief valve will not open under full boost thats the job of the blow off valve. Implementing a better and adjustable BOV has allowed me to safely operate my ski at full manufacture set boost levels even if I hit the rev-limiter.

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R-Rated Performance with the vary “FIRST” OEM modified Intake Grate on the market.

This oem modified intake grate worked well for me. Using it on glass conditions it slowed down my boat on an average of 1mph. Although in rough conditions I was able to maintain higher speed then the stock intake. R-Rated Performance has two ways to purchase this piece. They charged me as if they sent me their intake then refunded the price of a stock intake once I had shipped them mine. Basically a core exchange program or you can buy it complete and keep your stock unit along with the modified one.

I went to a surf race and the boat hooked well in the jet wash of other boats. A huge difference from the stock intake. Pump stayed loaded in some rough water. Unlike intakes in the past this one did not have that dragging an anchor feel to it. It did lower the RPM’s a bit, this will be addressed when we start finding props to work in this boat. I don’t recommend this intake grate for the recreational rider but for any type of competition buoy riding its a beneficial part with the sponsons.

Installation was simple and can be found under the Pump Shoe Seal Kit.

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