Stock air temps with 5 min at max rpms have shown to run a average of 122 deg temps. With the TBM cooling kit we have seen an average of 105 deg temps

Lets just jump into the install.

Kit is complete with hoses and clamps.

This pic is of the hose reduction assembled.

This is the hose that will bridge the old intercooler dump line into a water inlet. The red number 1 is the location of the outlet that will now become inlet.

Here is the water bar installed.

Be sure to use the supplied restricted brass water fitting on the water bar.

This next photo shows a remove exhaust system for display. This task can be done easily inside the craft.  Simple. Remove the stock water fitting “Green B” and stall the 1/4 npt brass plug “Yellow C”  into the exhaust system  feed. “Blue A”

Once you have done this then the hose line that did go to the exhaust manifold is now routed to a thru hull dump fitting install on the rear section of the hull pointing down but back to clear rear deck.

Here is the pointed outside fitting.

This modification has restricted fittings for controlled water flow into the intercooler but a unrestricted outlet. The intercooler never really exceeds the stock water pressure. The restricted fittings also control the flow rate. Not allowing it to run too fast. This slowed flow allows the water to absorb more heat heat away from the inside of the cooler.

Total time for install took me just under an hour. Easy to install and easy to change back to stock if needed.

The Falicon Supercrank is the “ultimate” crankshaft modification for knife-edge performance. The OEM crankshaft is blueprinted to the best combination of oil clearance, moderate lightening and precise tolerance for your specific application. The crank throws are contoured and polished to a mirror finish, improving oil flow and reducing crankcase turbulence. Each crankshaft is custom balanced to the reciprocating weight and intended rpm range, for use with or without the OEM counterbalance (on some models).

This was a new crank that I sent into Falicon. This is what I got back.

Took forever but its here now and that’s all that counts.

Red A is the is for improved oil flow over bearing surface.

Blue B is the knife edging

Yellow C is the highly polished surface eara’s design to shed oil quickly.

I weigh the cranks against each other. Show the Super Crank comming in at 1.2 lbs lighter. We had certain specs done to the crank with balance in mind when using Carillo rods.

You will want to follow the crank mic specs closely to find proper bearing size. Other then that the crank is pretty much straight forward.

You can have your crank done standard thru Falicon. The crank we tested at our specs offered a 50rpm gain and tremendas amount of improved acceleration with silk smooth engine RPM’s up to 8350.

We have found that adding an additional hump in the seat allows for a bit of relaxation on the arms while riding long distances. An idea originally seen on Craig Warners 250 at WF 08.

This is not our own design to be sold, we encorage people to go to HT Moto or JetTrim for this modification.

Its easy to do and can easily be customized for any rider.

Below is a shot of the base and the crack that commonly happens to 250/260 crafts. This type of damage especially happens to Ultra’s used in endurance and offshore riding. The issue I have found is that the stock intercooler fills with water making it heavy. This combined with rough water conditions transfer alot of the shock effect to the base that is resting on fiberglass. This fiber glass will fatigue over time resulting in severe stress cracking of the base materials.

See Pic below. What you see in pink is the area that is commonly effected due to stress cracks. These will continue to grow and fatigue the base to a point of failure if not addressed. The red is the stock glue that needs to be removed to allow the new support to seat properly. Note, some do not have this glue section.

You will want to remove the motor if the cracks are bad enough. If no cracks are present then motor can stay installed. I chose to remove my motor to ensure I was able to get rivets into place to support the cracked areas. Later Ill show the method without removing the motor but first Ill show this way. Ill be doing it in three different boats. First is to remove the clue and the serial number plate.

The plate can easily be removed by simply using a flat head screw driver and hammer to tap it on one side closes to the motor. It will shoot off in one piece when done this way.

Here is a pic with the box properly prepped for the base support. Notice the glue is removed and so is the VIN plate. Be sure to sand the base box with some 80 grit sand paper to ensure the epoxy properly adheres to the stock base box. The brace is already prepepped for you.

Here is how I prepared mine for the epoxy. First I marked out the outline of the fitted support piece.

Once outlined I removed the fitted support and sanded the surface to be in contact with the epoxy. I know your looking at this wonderingwhere the cracks went, well this pic is of a new boat we are biulding into a race craft with a vary special engine.

Below is a pic of the base support piece along with the stock glue I removed with a hammer and flat head screw driver.

Next you need to prep the epoxy and spread it over the inner surface of the fitted support piece. I used a groved spreader to asure an even amount was left so that it would bond evenly.

Drop it into place and set your rivets.

Finally just bolt in your base plate and your finished.

Next to come is race results after a offshore race.

The support system works extremely well and as of today 8-28-09 the cracks have stoped and no further issues from the stock intercooler support.

Lee can be reached at 805-895-1380

This simple yet extremely vital part is a must have for offshore and endurance style racing.

The kit adds and additional 10 gallons up front of the Ultra. Kit also includes a relocation kit to move your battery and ECU ensembles.

First part of this kit is to remove the front bottom bucket from the craft. This was done for several reasons but most importantly was to allow for maximum fuel capacity. Bonus I found was a tremendous amount of ventilation gain.

I found that on a few of the crafts we fitted that the main stock tank needed to be scooted back. It seems that the stock location has some tolerance that allows the tank to scoot forward and the tank shoe doesn’t align properly. I used a crow bar and simply gave it a small scoot.

Once that boring job is done then you can fit in the tank shoe that forms around part of the stock tank and the extra tank.

You ll notice the mounting bars for the Relay and Battery are inbeded within the fiberglass. To mount the kit down youll use the stock location of the battery tray. Be sure to use RED loctite in this location.

Also notice in the pic above that I had to cut a small corner off the left side foam. This was to allow clearance. Some may want to keep it there and just allow the shoe to squeeze to it.

Also notice the red strap I used as its a security ratchet Im adding for rough offshore use.

The kit does require you to mount the ECU to the side wall of the craft. Understand that this System was design for Race boats or crafts used ion competition.

Pic of that location coming……

Once you have your ECU and relay switches mounted away and safe the you cn move onto strapping the battery and installing the battery brace.

The strap and brace are definitely hardcore and ensure absolutely no movement of the battery. The kit comes with traps attach to the front stock tank clips. You will be adding an addition strap to those hook to come over the battery. The mounting brace is the aluminum bar that mounts to the center section of the hull under the instrument display.

I opted to go with the kit that does not have a filler neck.

Drop the tank in and strap it down.

Pic below is the extra precaution I did to ensure a corner attachment to aviod shock from under the hull.

The tank used is a actual Coast Guard aproved tank ment for use within a watercraft engine bay. The eaxtra tank is also extremely durable and takes to abuse of offshore use extremely well.  The system works with the ventalation tube and pulls fuel from the extra tank when the stock tank fuel level drops it automatically replenishes from the extra tank. Esentially it burns from the extra then when that runs dry it pulls from the stock. Great thisng about this design is that if you like you can use your craft as it was stock and only fill the extra tank when extra milage is required.

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Just some shots I took as I just got it in to test on….

Installation simple and easy to do. I recommend that you use plenty of silicone when installing your grate and let it dry for a minimumof 24 hrs.  Be sure to remove all the old silicone so that the new will be able to set properly.

Here is the grate installed.

Initial testing has shown no RPM loss but additional hook up. With no RPM loss you can expect no speed loss with the intake grate. Design and testing has shown the grate to less aggressive but still maintain good hook up on lake conditions.

Next we will be testing with our Pro Stock Rider Ryan Hardwick at the APBA National Tour stop in SC. This is a surf race that has proven to be some vary challangiong rough water conditions.

Check back soon for surf results and testing along side the Riva ride plate.

Ive been doing Pulley kits ever since we flew out to R&D test site in late 2007. By the invitation of them, we were able to learn of the complete kit and all the parts they use to make the only engine kit out there in its time. Development took R&D a complete year to perfect the kit as they see fit and pull together many resources to achieve the goal they set. The list of what was available was long and a bit confusing. As what was explained to me, was so that the tuners had option of buying pieces or the kit as a whole. Welcoming for us who want to customize a kit but leaves a door open to be copied by persons who feed themselves from the work of others.

Lets start with the R&D, founder of this pulley kit concept. Ill just link it here.

As you can see they thought of every little part and piece. Almost over engineering it, but to me that’s what so great about it. You can reverse engineer it simply and understanding its every step to final production. Still you have to admit, it was the foundation that so many duplicated whether they admit it or not.

JetWorx in AUS.

Next kit I know of is the one from Australia labeled under Jetworx presented in early 2008. Motivated by US exchange rate and shipping cost, they worked on their own kit based on the same concept and copy of the R&D 1-1 wheel. Difference here is that they thought out to make complete kit that looks stock, surly a motivating factor could have been the lax technical inspections at local races making the potential buying group to include Racers and Recreational . 

 Interesting enough of its use and design motivation, the kit yields a good insight to the thought put into it. Very simple yet clever in design. You get a copy of the R&D 1-1, HP fuel pump, Modified stock injectors and finally a modified stock timing wheel. Now from experience at installing this kit I can tell you that the kit, though clever has some issues. Issues that even I could overcome easily. So Ive reverse engineered it and come up with some very interesting information.

Injector Testing Result #1 JetWorx, #2 OEM 2008, #3 OEM 2009, #4 Mits OEM, #5 Pinky’s STi, #6 R-Rated Black.

The stock injectors are rated at 465cc and the modified ones in the kit are 535cc. The stock fuel pump is a LP “low pressure ” and the one in the kit is a HP “high pressure” both delivering the same psi but one is able to maintain this set psi during heavy load operation. In the kit they ask that you install the injectors and the fuel pump they provide with removing the stock pressure regulator. I suggest you dont do this, as it only runs the PSI higher and with 535cc injectors it tends to flood out idle and low RPM operations. An AFR of 9.5 and at WOT for me was 10.5 and well below prime numbers. Having no adjustable fuel regulator makes this impossible to tune on. Though the final install looks completely stock. What the work of Jetworx showed us is that the 535 Injector alone will work well with the 1-1 pulley wheel design. No addition fuel pressure is needed so we left the stock regulator in dropping the Fuel PSI back to 43lbs. We did install the HP fuel pump in order to ensure we were able to sustain 43psi under heavy demand. Though Jetworx copied the pulley they did focus alot on sneaky fuel supply and exposing what is really needed to provide a simple kit. 1-1 Pulley, HP fuel pump and 535cc injectors. Timing mod is a simple add on and cheap to do.

Rogue Racing late 2009

 The other copy out of the R&D 1-1 pulley size is the Rogue Racing Med Pulley.  I define copy as in the diameter of the pulley belt section.

Problem for me is that they offer no instructions for installation nor any tuning or fuel support with this pulley. They only cut a wheel, box it and claim to have completely tested information. Odd as the pulley doesn’t even come with proper bolts or hardware as all the others do.

The Rogue pulley has taken the R&D pulley to another level in effort to improve the original design but there are some simple issues that even the manufacture has seemed to over look.

Id like to explain all about the Rogue Racing kit but they don’t have one. We’ve had to use the R&D set up or R-Rated set up to make the pulley work safely. They don’t advertise one and surly don’t have instructions on one. Seems they may be waiting for someone to do it for them.

So as we know it now, all 1-1 pulleys add only 1.5 lbs not 2.5lbs of boost to the base output to ones stock charger. Older chargers will produce less boost gains. 

Another design situation that is being ignored is the clearance with stock Pulley snout on this Rogue pulley. Example, if you install just the pulley as provided by Rogue you run two major issues of potential failures. Failures that the manufacture seems to not know of or have they provided us with proper hardware to prevent such an issue. 

 Lets help Rogue figure it out.

 Focusing first on the back side of all three pulleys discussed here.

R&D seems to have made tolerances for potential clearance issues.

R&D with OEM Charger Snout.

Now the R&D on the new 2010 OEM Charger. Notice the profile with clearance in mind.

Next lets look at the Jetworx pulley. Seems identical for placement of this very important profile in relation to the bearing.

 Notice even the stock has a profile that allows for such tolerance.

Now lets look at the Rogue Pulley… One must ask why they failed to recognize the importance of this profile?

Why would this be an issue?

Doesn’t seem to matter just from looking at it and surly what the machine shop was thinking too.  This pulley design in the back runs to much of a risk for us to use as what we are to believe is the recommended method of installation. Im to assume because it comes with no instructions or supporting hardware. I have taken the time to document the issues I have with this rear pulley profile.

Here is the Rogue Pulley on a stock OEM Charger Snout. Notice the contact with bolt heads to inside rim of the Rogue Pulley.

Another installed on the new 2010 OEM Charger

 Here you go Rogue, this is the answer. Read carfully.

Notice the head profile on the bolts I purchased verses the OEM set of five above it. This drops the head profile by 3mm.  Use M6 x 16 low profile Stainless bolts. Tighten bolts using blu-lock-tite to 104in/lbs. Also use these bolts when using the R&D Charger Snout with the Rogue pulleys to aviod clearance issues on back side of pulley. Notice in Pic below how the R&D supplied bolts also runs too close to the Rogue pulley rear profile.

Lets also talk about front Dampener Bolts. Rogue, this is the hardware for your pulley.

Pink screws are what come out of the stock stainless pulley. Not much thread bite but stainless threading is much much stronger then Aluminum threading. The ones in Blue are the ones that come with a R&D pulley. Seems they realize that it best to have a longer screw with their pulleys. The ones in Green are the M6 x 14 we had to purchase.

Odd this was over looked as they both have the same tensioner thread depth.????

As the Rogue pulleys are shipped, there is no hardware and one has to rely on the stock bolts.

Be aware that you could be risking charger and pulley damage if you do not take the time and extra expense to purchase the correct hardware.

Third issue I’m looking into is with one of our “small” 1.05-1 pulleys from Rogue. It seems there is cracking in the web between the threaded tensioner hole and the milled out ventilation hole.  Still looking into  this and its potential cause.

In closing about this pulley. I must say the belt guard and ventilation of the pulley is helpful design. Bearing issues seem to be minimized at this point . The short comings mentioned are adaptable and I often use this pulley on race applications.

Stand alone Kit

Let me show you how to support your pulley in the stripped down basic way. Your going to still need to purchase several R&D parts to do this correctly. Do it right the first time. Trust me Ive tried the short cuts and they always come back to haunt me.

Lets start with the Rogue Pulley. I’m going to use this one, do to its racer inspired design, trust me it wasn’t Rogue alone. I’ll be adding the stainless hardware as described above.

Items Ill be using.  In this lay out.

Rogue Med Pulley at 1.5lbs boost increase

Rogue tensioner Not needed though, you can save $100 and ditch this one with no ill effect.

Walbro HP GSS341/342 Universal Kit

AeroMotive 13105

R&D Charger Wheel Hub / Alignment Tool

R&D Dampner Holder Tool

R&D Pressure Reg Bypass Fitting

R&D Pulley Puller Tool

R&D Fuel Rail Stand Offs / Modified

Fuel Pressure Gauge.

550 CC Top loading Injectors “Cheaper” But Stock Injectors could work.

Summit Catalog = AN parts. 6 Bulk Head with Nut, 2x 6 AN 90 Barbed, 6 Straight to 1/8 npt, 90 elbow 6to6, 6 swivel fem to fem and 3 ft 6Hose.

AFR Guage with O2 kit complete for testing your AFR/LA.

You would be better to read the R&D post I made in order to obtain the information of installing pump, injectors, reg block off and bulk head fitting. HERE

Lets touch on the injectors a bit. I say this due to the fact that the stock can be used but your going to need to pump the fuel pressure beyond the stock specs that the fuel line and fittings are rated at. There has yet to be a failure that I know of but it still doesn’t settle well considering the main fuel line pushes on with a plastic clip holding it in place. Ill opt to go with a bigger injector and scale down the fuel PSI giving me plenty of safe operating range to tune within.

This is the first time ever that Ive shown this set up and do so assuming it will be barrowed. It was first brought to me by a friend over a R-Rated as alternative location with less hardware back in early 2008. It does though put the Regulator on the motor and subject it to harsh vibration. As of yet I have not found any ill effect from it. This location does allow for tuning to be done with rear seat base still attached.

So you understand location of all fuel components, lets just cover a few small details on the pulley and were off to tuning.

Pulley install is straight forward and for this a shop manual isn’t going to help much.

Carefully remove the stock pulley dampener. This is a crucial part and needs to be reinstalled. Pictured here with the bolts.

Use the holder when removing and installing Dampener bolts. Blu-Loc-Tite and 104in lbs.

Remember to not reuse the stock bolts with this pulley set. Purchase your M614 and M616 hardware for proper install.

When fitting the pulley and alignment I ensure my ring clip is always seated properly. I do so with a flat head screw driver. I use the pulley and the rind to wedge away from each other ensuring the ring is seated.

Tuning is super simple once you have your AFR hooked up and functioning. Location is simple and is where everyone puts it as its a dry hole thru to the inside of pipe.

You can see the hole drilled for the o2 sensor on down section of pipe.

Tuning. The Ultra stock mapping is a rich mixture at idle. Usually a 10 to 10.5 but leans out in the mid range  or cruising speed to around 12.5 to 13 and drops down to about 11.5 at WOT.

This is the range you want to return to or match when tuning. If you are race tuning then you want your bottom to be a bit leaner for a harder hit but run the risk of a too lean mid range and top. This can be range tuned individually using the R&D Powershot.

If your use to using Lambda then here is a helpful chart for you to convert off of. Here!

Mechanical tuning is simple and truly the 101 of tuning. Just remember that fuel pressure up means your going richer and you AFR numbers drop, vise when your fuel pressure goes down then your leaning up and AFR rises.

Cant get any simpler then that.

For a long time Ive suggested the standard oil. Why? Cause Kawasaki warranty is such little bitches about cover anything, I feared they would wiggle out of responsibilty due to oil change and not using Kawasaki recommended oil.

Well here you go, The best you can get and its got KAWASAKI ALL OVER IT.

Actually made by Motul for Kawasaki. Now when they say you have the wrong oil you can show them this picture.

100% Sythetic oil. No blends or funky additives. Looks like Mountain Due to me.